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When friends entreated them to transform an 18th-century hillside ermita near Madrid, impish design duo the Exvotos vowed to do things in divinely inspired style. Their offering: a chapel that remains perfectly sober outside but is a riot of tempera brushwork and all-round whimsy within. Why, even the Madonna looks like something straight out of commedia dell’arte
The Exvotos
The arched door into the small chapel is surmounted by a trompe-l’oeil curtain that ‘opens’ to reveal a crucifix

An artistic duo hailing from Seville, the Exvotos design and craft highly coveted wonders, including ceramic heads, plates, lamps, obelisks, basins, sculptures, paintings and anything else that sparks their imagination. Adeptly, they draw inspiration from historical elements, seamlessly updating them to create a contemporary language that transcends borders. A recurring motif in their work is the incorporation of popular religious themes. Operating from their studio in Seville, Luciano Galán and Daniel Maldonado unleash their creativity by reviving and reinventing artisanal techniques, resulting in finished pieces that are truly one-of-a-kind. Yet, hidden amid the hills of Valdaracete in a private estate in the southeastern part of the Community of Madrid, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de La Pera, a tiny 18th-century chapel, might just be their true obra maestra.

On a brisk October day, I hopped into my car for the short 45-minute drive from Madrid. A long-standing admirer of the Exvotos’ work, I was eager to see in person what they had carried out in the sanctuary’s interiors. My car made its way through the serene countryside, rolling terrain dotted with pine trees and olive trees as far as the eye could see. Above, a vast dappled sky completed the scene. I steered off the main road and on to a long, winding lane that eventually led me past the estate’s main buildings to the ermita, a small, free-standing structure flanked by two feathery cypress trees. I was immediately struck by its unassuming, mustard-coloured façade. I soon discovered, however, that first impressions can be deceiving; while modest on the outside, the hermitage conceals a magical world within its solid walls.

Made by Luciano Galán, the cartapesta Virgin cradles a pear, which in Christian mythology symbolises the Madonna and child and more broadly the feminine

The Ermita de Nuestra Señora de La Pera owes its name to a momentous event— a shepherd’s apparition of the Virgin Mary, perched on a pear tree. In response to the beholder’s revelations, the landowner erected and dedicated a hermitage, as well as commissioning a sculpture of the Madonna. At some point, the benevolent owner donated this sacred carving to the neighbouring village, leading to a second shrine being constructed there. This cherished icon remained in the village until the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Tragically, it disappeared during the conflict, and today, a proxy stands in its stead. The Virgin is now revered as the patron of Valdaracete, celebrated annually during the local festival held on 1 May.

In a state of disrepair, with only the foundational elements still intact, the ermita underwent an extensive structural restoration in the 1960s. The rehabilitation aimed not only to revive it from its dilapidated condition, but also to preserve its historical significance. A second refurbishment, undertaken by its current owners in the year 2000, focused on renewing the plaster, as well as addressing the condition of the arched door and windows.

It remains uncertain whether or not decorative artwork was a feature of the original hermitage. Prior to a restoration in the 1960s, very little of it survived, except for the foundations and lower sections of wall

Jump to 2023, and the proprietors sought to enhance the chapel’s beauty for upcoming family celebrations. With their son set to wed, they engaged their close friends Luciano and Daniel to transform the interiors and embellish the walls. ‘The owners, who deeply appreciate art and beauty, championed this project. They actively participated, giving us creative freedom while also sharing their opinions.’ Luciano is speaking as he leads me through teal wooden doors into the richly decorated sanctuary. ‘This collaboration resulted in perfect harmony and the completion of a job that satisfies us all.’

To the right of the altar, a selection of missals and other religious books belonging to the owners sits on a ledge decorated with naive tempera brushwork

This exceptional task was executed by the Exvotos using tempera painting, a traditional artistic technique dating back centuries and characterised by its use of a water-soluble binder, typically egg yolk, mixed with pigments to create a paint medium. Artists traditionally apply this mixture to surfaces such as wood panels, plaster walls or canvas, producing works with a distinctive quick-drying quality that allows for precise detailing and intricate layering. The opacity of tempera paint contributes to the rich vibrancy of its colours, and, when applied correctly, the medium is remarkably durable and resistant to ageing. After the Medieval and Renaissance eras, its primacy and popularity waned with the advent of oil paints. Nonetheless, the Exvotos embrace tempera for its historical significance and singular aesthetic possibilities.

‘While our work draws from Romanesque, Baroque and Gustavian styles, we try to avoid confining ourselves to a single artistic category. Our approach is not to replicate but to create something unique,’ explains Luciano. As I take in the beauty of my surroundings, he continues: ‘We particularly enjoy incorporating architectural elements and floral decorations inspired by nature. The colours we used for this project are soft tones that blend perfectly with the exterior landscape.’ The project ran from June to September 2023. Borrowing such architectural features as Solomonic columns and friezes, the duo created an altarpiece using motifs of flowers and vegetables that grow in the countryside around: pear and strawberry trees, Spanish broom, lilies. ‘The front culminates in a cartouche with an emotive religious motto,’ says Luciano. ‘We also painted a textile motif,’ adds Daniel, ‘mimicking a large curtain that folds and unfolds along the walls. Crowned by a canopy with cords and tassels, it ultimately opens to highlight the image of a lead-cast Christ from the time of the hermitage’s creation.’

The Exvotos chose to paint a shell on the ceiling of the apse. Traditionally it can symbolise the womb and the source of humanity

Luciano explains that the Virgin, gracefully suspended above the altar, is crafted using a technique he learned in Italy called cartapesta – very similar to papier-mâché, it derives specifically from the classical Venetian carnival-mask tradition. ‘Take note of the delicate pear she holds in her hand,’ he points out, ‘echoing the original carving that once graced this space.’ When I enquire about the motto – translated as ‘My providence and your faith will keep the house standing’ – Luciano explains that it’s a divine phrase. ‘Saint Maria Micaela of the Blessed Sacrament requested her nuns place it in every home, a sentiment we find deeply moving. When we proposed the idea, it resonated with the owners as well, becoming an integral part of the chapel’s narrative’.


For more information, visit theexvotos.com

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