Force of Nature

The Brontë sisters, stainless steel and those fluffy, bready accompaniments that come with a Sunday roast – these are all things that have put Yorkshire on the map; but have you ever heard about the Rhubarb Triangle? One farm in the heart of it, E. Oldroyd & Sons, has been perfecting the cultivation of the crop for decades.

The family were originally fruit growers in the Wisbech area of Cambridgeshire before John Richard Oldroyd branched out to become a successful market gardener in the 1930s. He lost everything, however, during the depression, before moving to Wakefield to be closer to his daughter. Here, he found a farm to rent, began raising fruit and vegetables, and befriended local cultivators with whom he exchanged his knowledge about strawberries in return for their know-how about forcing rhubarb. Three generations later, Ken Oldroyd, the ‘Rhubarb King’, took over the reins of the business and under his custodianship, it flourished to new heights. In 1967, he played a central role in forming the Yorkshire rhubarb growers’ cooperative, encouraging commercial growers to unite and market as a group. After his eyesight declined he retired, and so began his daughter Janet Oldroyd Hulme’s turn at the helm.

Rhubarb is grown inside a forcing shed under strict conditions that require warmth and absolute pitch darkness, shielded from the light to produce tender, vibrant stalks. The crops are thus encouraged to grow taller as they reach upwards in search of light; ultimately, that results in a product that’s sweeter and more tender than if it were grown in natural light. When the stalks are ready to pick, the farmers, rather romantically, carry with them a single candle – enough light to guide their way along the rows without disrupting the delicate growing process.

For Janet, scion of rhubarb royalty, it’s a skill passed down through the family line. Each stalk holds not only a taste of Yorkshire, but is a piece of history and tradition that spans generations, as she reveals.

‘As I reflect on my life and career in rhubarb farming and forcing, I feel a wave of nostalgia wash over me. I am a fourth-generation grower in our family. Our roots are deeply intertwined with the rich history of the Yorkshire rhubarb triangle, a region encompassing Leeds, Wakefield, and Bradford, where its cultivation has thrived for generations. There’s no place I’d rather be than here. Back in the day, there were over 200 producers in this area, but nowadays, there are just a handful of us left carrying on the tradition.

‘My earliest memories take me back to my childhood days, when my father would be up before the crack of dawn tending to the crops. He would toil tirelessly, day in and day out, to keep our family farm afloat during challenging times when the edible stalks faced downturns in popularity. One Christmas morning, I remember peeking out from my window and watching him trudge out into the snow to stoke the furnaces. Those were the days when the heat in the sheds came from the Yorkshire coalfields, and let me tell you, it was no easy feat keeping those furnaces burning. But despite the challenges, my father was determined to keep the rhubarb growing, come rain or shine. It wasn’t just a job for him; it was a passion, a legacy passed down through generations.

‘My father was determined to carry on the tradition. This stemmed from his deep-rooted connection to our family’s agricultural legacy. He inherited his passion for the vegetables from his own grandfather, who instilled in him a profound reverence for the land. He often spoke of the moment when his grandfather first led him behind the forbidden door of the forcing shed, igniting within him a lifelong love for the crop.

‘The sheds, with their dimly lit interiors and the faint scent of earth and candles, held a sense of magic for me as a child. Sneaking into them with my siblings, we were enveloped in a cocoon of warmth and tranquillity amid the darkness. But beyond the serenity lay the bustling activity of harvesting, a symphony of gentle pops as rhubarb buds burst forth, and the rhythmic creaking of stalks reaching for the light. In those moments, surrounded by the whispers of nature’s growth, I felt a deep connection to the land and the generations of farmers who had come before me. It’s a connection that has only deepened over the years as I’ve taken on the mantle of preserving our family’s legacy.

‘My father would be proud to see how we have carried on the tradition with reverence and innovation. From pioneering new growing techniques to sharing the ancient medicinal history of the crops with visitors from around the world, we’ve embraced our role as stewards of this remarkable process. As for me, being called the “High Priestess of Rhubarb” is both a humbling honour and a testament to my dedication to this beloved plant. From my days as a medical scientist to my current role as a guardian of the firm, my journey has been guided by a deep-seated passion for the land and its bounty. And now, as I look ahead to the future, I see my children dancing amid the fields, carrying on the traditions passed down through generations. It’s a scene that fills my heart with joy and gratitude, knowing that the magic of rhubarb will continue to flourish for years to come.

‘In the end, it’s not just about growing rhubarb; it’s about nurturing a connection to the land, honouring the past, and embracing the endless possibilities of the future. And as long as there are candles flickering in the darkness of the forcing sheds, the spirit of this timeless crop will continue to thrive, illuminating the way for generations to come.’

Details: eoldroyd.co.uk

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