We all carry the hussars in our imaginations, having crossed their paths in books, paintings and even fashion. Depicted in heroic poses by the painter Géricault, these flamboyant figures, whose origins lie in 15th-century Hungary, feature heavily in literature too. Popping up in the works of Pushkin and Maupassant, the hussars rub shoulders with Fabrice del Dongo in Stendhal’s The Charterhouse of Parma, fight in the Battle of Ostrovno on the pages of Tolstoy’s War and Peace and come face to face with the Martians in HG Wells’s The War of the Worlds. And what better than an impressive outfit to intimidate the enemy? Such was the tactic of the real hussars, who, after stopping rivals in their tracks with brightly coloured costumes, would swiftly decapitate them while letting out loud, terrifying cries.
Organised in small scouting units, they invented the art of guerrilla warfare on horseback and fascinated other European armies, who went on to recruit their own hussars in the 18th century. They played a crucial role in the Napoleonic wars too, which saw up to 80 hussar regiments from 20 different states confronting one another. Enemies on the battlefield, French, Prussian, English and Russian hussars nonetheless shared the same style of combat and dazzling uniforms, thereby ensuring their enduring celebrity.
The Musée Massey in Tarbes, a small village in the French Pyrenees, holds a collection of 17,000 hussar-related items alongside 120 mannequins dressed in magnificently restored period suits. All told, they trace 400 years of evolving hussar style, which continues to resonate in art, literature and on runways to this day.
With its roots in Hungarian folklore, the hussar look includes a dolman – a short, tailored jacket with tight sleeves – adorned with decorative braiding, 18 rows of wool or metal-thread frogging and a generous helping of 90 buttons. A short pelisse, itself trimmed with frogging and buttons, was worn over the dolman and held in place by a lanyard. It was fashioned from wool and hemmed with fur: sheep for the troops and fox for the officers (or occasionally sable, astrakhan, bear or wolf). Close-fitting breeches made from thin wool were embroidered with braid and tucked into leather boots with folds on the uppers. Pelisse, dolman and breeches were usually worn in contrasting colours, such as sky blue with scarlet and daffodil yellow, so that the hussars could be seen from afar. A sabretache pouch attached to a multicoloured, fringed belt was wrapped three times round the waist, while a tall, cylindrical military hat covered in close-cropped black fur was worn atop the head. Known as a shako, this imposing headgear was completed by a visor and a prominent plume or pompom. Underneath, they tied their hair back with a bow, while two thick braids were left hanging at the front. Finally, the moustache was an essential part of their distinctive uniform; any beardless recruits fashioned their own out of brown wax.
Horses were considered an extension of these exceptional cavalrymen, who fought with the physical prowess of a jockey. They were astoundingly adept at handling both a sword and a gun while riding on horseback, seated on their ‘Hungarian saddle’, which was sans strap and so allowed for all manner of acrobatics. Officers liked to cover theirs with a panther or leopard skin, always the epitome of elegance in parades or on the battlefield.
This opulence, however, came with a price tag. During the 18th century, regiments across Europe were financed by colonel-benefactors, wealthy aristocrats who would command the troops and provide them with equipment. In the 19th century, hussars were incorporated into national armed forces, and the troops were equipped by the state. Meanwhile, officers had to pay for their own trousseau, which cost at least a year’s salary and comprised their uniforms, two horses, a groom and servant. Some officers spent a great deal on their uniforms, often splashing out on finery, as they enjoyed more sartorial freedom than the troops. As such, during the golden age of hussar uniforms in 18th-century France, a more sophisticated evening suit made from cream-coloured nankeen was invented, featuring the customary dolman and trousers embroidered with Hungarian braiding. A period equivalent to the tuxedo, this suit was worn with a blue ‘off- duty’ cap, while the intricate knotting – originally Turkic in tradition with a tone-on-tone design – was evocative of Celtic embroidery. As it was not part of the official hussar uniform, variations were endless, depending on the officer’s choice of tailor. Its solid cream colour, however, remained unaltered.
On the battlefield, in more traditional dress, the hussars’ bold uniforms were matched with military excellence and a bravado that manifested as madness. The troops’ distinctive spirit was embodied by unwavering honour, a contempt for death and often excessive behaviour. Both in war and off-duty, hussars had a reputation for being hard drinkers, skirt chasers and brawlers. But, as both their exploits and uniforms had won the public’s hearts, they were forgiven their louche lifestyle.
During the 19th century, the ‘hussar style’ was emulated by civilians and armies alike. Later, in the 20th century, even rock stars got on board. Jimi Hendrix, the Beatles and Prince were all known to wear the frogged dolman; Michael Jackson was particularly partial to the garment. The ferocious horsemen have since taken the luxury and fashion worlds by storm too. Hermès, synonymous with all things equestrian since its creation, has often paid homage to the hussars in its accessories, while Saint Laurent, Balmain, Givenchy, Dolce & Gabbana and Yohji Yamamoto have all revisited their trademark suits. Jean Paul Gaultier based his entire autumn/winter 2002 couture collection on the hussars, even creating an elaborate bridal gown inspired by their characteristic style of dress.
Nowadays though, only a few hussars remain, with one division based in Tarbes, where the Musée Massey is located. Ironically, the modern-day fighters have swapped their horses for armoured vehicles, while their famously colourful uniforms have been supplanted by the art of camouflage.
Musée Massey, 1 Rue Achille Jubinal, 65000 Tarbes, France. musee-massey.com
A version of this article also appeared in the March 2025 issue of ‘The World of Interiors’. Learn about our subscription offers. Sign up for our bi-weekly newsletter, and be the first to receive exclusive stories like this one, direct to your inbox
